As part of our creative collaboration with Jane Austen’s House, a team of young volunteers have worked alongside us on our Ribbons to Riches project. Here, volunteer Elizabeth Strange delves into the history of the American Silk Industry.

Silk production in America has a complicated history. Although initially a slow start in the 1600s, the invention of the power loom in the 1800s increased production significantly. There is a rich story behind America’s contribution to the silk industry. This blog entry will explore the key aspects in America’s turbulent history of silk.

17^th Century

During the 17^th Century, King James I of England tried to increase the growth of raw silk for English factories by forcing tobacco planters in the state of Virginia to plant mulberry trees and raise silkworms. He imposed a fine of ten pounds if planters did not grow a minimum of ten mulberry trees on every 100 acres on their land.  These mulberry trees were vital as a food source for the silkworms and therefore would increase silkworm populations. Despite King James’ best attempts to force mulberry planting, his plan failed as planters were not interested in producing raw silk. Instead, they found growing tobacco much easier and were not impressed by the labour-intensive process of producing raw silk. James’ fine was increased and dropped several times before ultimately being abandoned.

Consequently, silk production in America during the 1600s was slow and very little progress was made.

18^th Century

In the 18th Century, silk production was introduced into several parts of America, including New Haven. However, it was still not hugely successful at the time, due to the difficulty involved in raising silkworms. Silkworms are very sensitive to environmental conditions and even the slightest change can affect their growth.

During this time, most silk was made in peoples’ homes and was woven on a foot powered loom. Any other elements of the production process were done by hand, for example, reeling or throwing.

In the late 1700s, unwanted silk ribbons from France were transported to America. This was due to the French Revolution, where expensive clothing with ribbons became unfashionable in France. The increased popularity of simpler clothing styles in France meant that many French silk ribbon workers lost their livelihoods. To combat the loss of business, French Traders traded silk ribbons with American Indian Tribes around the Great Lakes of America. The use of silk ribbons also spread to nearby woodland and prairie tribes. These ribbons were used in in a technique called ribbon work appliqué, where strips of coloured ribbon are sewn onto fabric as a form of decoration. These ribbons were brightly coloured and were handstitched onto fabric.

19^th Century

By the 19^th Century, silk production in America had increased, as a new type of mulberry tree had been introduced. This variety grew quickly and had large leaves. Many companies invested in the tree, such as the Cheney Brothers – a silk manufacturer from Connecticut.

This was initially a good idea as investors embraced the notion of homegrown silk, increasing the overall price of mulberry trees. However, during the mid-1800s, outbreaks of blight wrecked many trees in America, including mulberry trees. This led to a loss in income for mulberry tree growers and an overall decrease in silk production once again.

In 1861, production soared once more when the Tariff Act was passed, raising the tariff on imported manufactured silks. The Tariff Act did not include raw silk, which allowed American companies to continue importing raw silk from abroad in order to make their products. Moreover, the invention of the power loom in the 1870s industrialised the silk industry, contributing to a significant production increase within American factories. Sadly, this also caused a reduction in the use of the hand loom, however some still held onto it as a more personal method of silk and silk ribbon production.

20^th Century

The 20^th Century brought about change within the American silk industry. In the early 1900s, there were many strikes by factory workers within America, such as the Paterson Silk Strike in 1913. The strike included over 10,000 workers and lasted for several months. The strike was called as workers did not like the introduction of a new policy where four people were assigned to a loom instead of two. They also wanted to negotiate a shorter day, as well as an increase in wages. The strike eventually ended, with the strikers receiving some of their demands, such as small wage increases. Furthermore, the strike brought about a delay in imposing the four-person loom system.

By this point, silk production in America had become extremely exploitative. Some factories hired children as apprentices for a year, which allowed employers to keep half of child workers’ wages until the end. However, to avoid paying children their full salary, employers would then fire them before the year had finished. During the early 20^th Century, many of these children were as young as 11 or 12. Women were also paid less than men and their wages were rarely enough to support even one person.

Gradually laws were passed to limit child labour in some areas of America that produced silk. For example, in 1910, a law was passed in Pennsylvania that meant that children between 8 to 16 had to attend school. Due to further changes in the law during the early 20^th Century, more adult women began working in the factories. This coincided with the increased production of silk ribbons for womenswear. However, this was short-lived as by the 1920s fashions had become simpler and the popularity of silk ribbons decreased. In this changing market, ribbon manufacturers turned to materials other than silk to avoid going bust, such as rayon. From 1930 onwards, the number of silk looms gradually decreased and after the war, America began to favour products other than silk. Despite the decline in silk production after World War II, some places continued to produce silk, including silk ribbons. For example, Monroe Silk Mills made ribbon for a variety of products, including clothing and crafts.

21^st Century

Monroe Silk Mills still produce silk ribbon which they sell and ship all over the world. Moreover, some museums such as the Smithsonian still hold silk ribbons from the past in their collection, giving visitors a window into America’s complex history in the silk industry.